Kansas Pecans

With a combination of native and grafted varieties, Kansas orchards produce a full harvest of this favorite holiday nut

Native to North America, pecans have become a central part of holiday cooking and baking traditions for many Americans. Tom Circle, of Circle Pecans near McCune, attributes the nut’s popularity to its distinctive taste: “buttery, nutty, somewhat savory, but with a bit of sweet.”

Though pecans can be bought and shipped from growers across the States and Mexico, fresh, local pecans will always have a more distinct, truer taste. Lila Carter, whose family owns Jake Creek Pecans near Paola, explains. “Fresh pecans come directly from the tree and are held in cold storage until they are purchased, allowing them to retain quality and heart-healthy oils,” she says, contrasting them with long-distance supplied pecans that “may have turned dark and have a somewhat bitter taste [and] are often boiled or chemically preserved, which also reduces and changes their flavor.”

In Kansas, we are fortunate to be able to source pecans from several local growers, each with their own specialties and traditions.

Traditionally, most commercially producing trees in Kansas were native, though that is changing as growers graft newer varieties onto existing pecan stock to produce higher yields and fuller nuts. Some of the newer, hybrid favorites are the Pawnee and Kanza trees. “Pawnee trees produce extraordinarily rich-tasting, plump, and golden-colored nuts,” Lila Carter explains, “while Kanza trees produce easy-to-shell, round nuts.”

While native pecans tend to produce smaller nuts with harder shells, Travis Wilson, fifth-generation owner of a farm that has been in his family since the 1800s, notes, “Many people prefer the flavor of the smaller, native pecans over the larger, improved ones.” His property borders the Neosho River about seven miles north of Oswego, and he explains that pecan trees in Kansas generally grow near rivers, creeks and streams where there is deep alluvial soil. These specific soil requirements mean that most of the pecan orchards in Kansas are located toward the southeast portion of the state. But against what some might call pecan-growing norms, Kendall Grier’s pecan farm is located in Bentley.

“No one this far northwest had tried to do this, so it is rather unique for the area,” says Grier, who started the orchard in 2000 after new pecan varieties more suited to his region and climate had been released. However, since he couldn’t rely on available moisture, Grier also purchased irrigation rights that allowed his trees to flourish and produce nuts.

As with any crop, pecans present challenges for the growers. Weather is at the top of the list with farmers worrying not only about lack of rain but also about spring and winter freezes. Pecans, referred to as “alternate bearing” trees, produce yields that vary from year to year with bumper crops one year, smaller crops the next.

Pecan orchards are definitely not for those seeking instant gratification. “It’s a lifetime process,” notes Tom Circle, whose grandfather

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Though most of the pecan sales come during the holiday season, the trees must be cared for year-round. Edmund started experimenting with tree grafting back in the 1980s. His father, Thomas, started the commercial business in 1994. Circle Pecans’ almost 30-year-old trees are still considered young by pecan-growing standards. While trees may begin producing nuts after five years, they are not strong enough for machine picking until they are about 15 years old.

Trees produce crops just once a year, but the workload continues throughout the year. In Kansas, pecan growers are sometimes so busy making sure there are enough nuts for gift-giving that they barely have time for their own celebrations. They typically spend the fall and winter holidays harvesting pecans. However, the Wilson family, who own Osage Ridge Farm in Oswego, always makes time for nutty treats, including pecan-loaded chocolate chip cookies. Kendall Grier, from Bentley Farm in Halstead, adds a little heat and spice to his holiday chores with his family’s version of cayenneinfused pecans. Tom Circle still has fond memories of his mother’s pecan brittle, but also concurs that many of his family’s holiday activities are planned around their business operations. “We are only closed five days during the year: Thanksgiving, (continued on page 31)

In 2013, Matthew Circle documented pecan farming in A Lifetime Process, a video submission for a class at Pittsburg State University. The documentary follows the laborious tasks involved in a typical harvest year, including

• Preparation Orchard floor is mowed and raked in preparation for the harvest. • Harvesting The long arm of a tractormounted trunk shaker is attached to each tree and causes the nuts to drop to the ground. A nut picker, which works much like a street sweeper, picks up the nuts. • Cleaning and inspection Once back at the processing plant, nuts are run through a pecan cleaner where an air separator is used to remove light nuts, sticks and trash. Nuts move onto the inspection table where workers check for rocks or other debris that might have been missed by the machine. • Sizing, cracking and bagging A sizing machine divides pecans into four sizes, and shell-on nuts are dropped into large super sacks. An air pressure cracker is used to crack the shells of those destined to be sold as cracked pecans; these are also “blown” to remove excess dust and debris. Other nuts are packaged as completely shelled and ready to eat.

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• 30 Rolo or similar chocolate-covered caramel candies, unwrapped • 30 square-shaped waffle pretzels • 30 pecan halves, toasted*

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or foil for easy clean up. 2. Place the pretzels on baking sheet and top each one with a candy. 3. Bake for 3 to 5 minutes, until the chocolate is soft but not completely melted. 4. Remove from oven, place on cooling rack and immediately press the pecan half onto the softened chocolate.

* To toast pecans: Bake in a 350 degree oven for 5 to 10 minutes. Stir or shake the pan occasionally so the nuts brown evenly without burning. Watch closely as the oil in the nuts can cause them to burn. Toasting adds another layer of flavor to pecans.

Note: Due to their high oil content, raw and toasted pecans stay freshest if stored in the refrigerator or freezer in sealed containers.

• 1 egg white • 1 tablespoon water • 1 cup granulated (white) sugar • ¾ teaspoon salt • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon • 1 pound pecan halves

1. Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Grease or spray one standard 9x13” baking sheet. 2. In a mixing bowl, whip together the egg white and water until frothy. 3. In a separate bowl, mix together the sugar, salt, and cinnamon. 4. Add pecans to egg whites; stir to evenly coat the nuts. 5. Remove and add the pecans to the sugar mixture; toss them until coated. 6. Spread nuts in a single layer on prepared baking sheet. 7. Bake for 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes. 8. Cool and store in an airtight container.

• 2 tablespoons butter, melted • 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce • ¼ teaspoon ground red pepper • ¼ teaspoon salt • ¼ teaspoon garlic powder • 2 cups pecan halves • 1 tablespoon chili powder, or cayenne pepper to taste for hotter mix.

1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. 2. Mix ingredients in a resealable plastic bag and shake. 3. Spread coated pecans in a single layer on a mediumsized baking sheet, and bake 30 minutes, stirring approximately every 10 minutes.

• 2 tablespoons vegetable or pecan oil • 2 tablespoons butter • 1 pound pecan halves • Salt to taste

1. Place oil and butter on a standard-sized baking sheet with sides; place in a preheated 250 degree oven just until butter melts. 2. Mix pecans and salt with the oil and butter. Spread nuts in a single layer on prepared baking sheet. 3. Bake for 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes. 4. Cool and store in an airtight container.

Pesticide-free pecans come from a variety of trees including Kanza, Pawnee, Posey, Greenriver, Giles and Peruque. Pecans are available in several forms including whole, cracked, 95% shelled, 100% shelled halves.

Tasting samples are available at in-person sales. Mail orders may be placed by phone or through Facebook or Ebay. Pick-up locations in Halstead and Wichita run from November through midJanuary. Self-picking options are available in November.

Offerings include one-pound bags of ready-to-eat halves and pieces and bags of easier-to-open cracked and blown pecans that have the dust and debris removed. The country store also offers pies, fudge and other nut-infused candies in addition to candied pecans, ice cream, and seasonal farm-raised vegetables. Designed as a “stop and shop” tourist destination, it welcomes bus groups and offers a range of deli options for hungry holiday shoppers.

Native hard-shell and thinner shell pecans are available; all are certified USDA organic. The most popular gift-giving choice is their one-pound bag of ready-to-eat pecans. Other offerings include uncracked and partially shelled and blown nuts. Purchases may be made by phone, online, or through seasonal sales at area farmers markets.

The Carters’ orchard offers 4-ounce holiday gift tins along with packaged pecans: whole, cracked with less than 10% shell, and totally cleaned. From October through December, the Carters attend holiday markets in Louisburg, Lenexa, and Lawrence. Information and dates for these markets are available online; they encourage customers to pre-order if possible. Pecans may be ordered via their online store with shipping throughout the US and Canada.

Their biggest seller is shelled pecans, but they also offer in-shell nuts, both cracked and uncracked. Seasoned and candied offerings include honey roasted, cinnamon, chocolate and salted and roasted pecans. Mild-flavored pecan oil, with its high smoking point, is a hit with customers. Products are available at the Overland Park Farmers Market, other Kansas City markets, and at an Emporia location.

Purchases may be made through their online store or by phone, and the Prothes recommend placing orders before Thanksgiving.

Christmas, New Year’s Day, Easter and Independence Day.” Tom’s wife, Barbara, who runs the country store, oversees a frenzy of baking to ensure the farm’s store has an ample supply of pecan-filled pies, fudge, cookies, brownies and treats that will be grabbed up by the bus- and carloads of holiday customers.

Lila Carter’s family takes a break from the never-ending task of harvesting and marketing pecans with sit-down dinners that feature her daughter’s pecan-topped squash casserole. Lila also incorporates pecans into her homemade toffee and turtle candies for gift-giving, and, she says, “We always have a bowl of spicy Jake Creek Pecans on the kitchen counter.”

For many growers, the pecan season has expanded to fill the year. Some 20 years ago, Leland Prothe was instrumental in helping set up Miami County Farm Tours, held on the third weekend of every October and again on Mother’s Day weekend. Now these events draw visitors by the hundreds to the Prothe farm. Most pecan growers agree that the advantages of a year-round season outweigh the disadvantages. “Despite all the hard work involved, I really enjoy it,” says Prothe. “It doesn’t seem like work.”

In Kansas, pecan trees flourish mostly in the southeast part of the state.

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Midwestern Pioneers Second Generation is my mother’s stories about growing up on a Kansas farm in the early 1900s.